The Neural Radiance Fields (NeRF) have been recently applied to reconstruct building-scale and even city-scale scenes. To model a large-scale scene efficiently, a dominant strategy is to employ a divide-and-conquer paradigm via performing scene decomposition, which decomposes a complex scene into parts that are further processed by different sub-networks. Existing large-scale NeRFs mainly use heuristic hand-crafted scene decomposition, with regular 3D-distance-based or physical-street-block-based schemes. Although achieving promising results, the hand-crafted schemes limit the capabilities of NeRF in large-scale scene modeling in several aspects. Manually designing a universal scene decomposition rule for different complex scenes is challenging, leading to adaptation issues for different scenarios. The decomposition procedure is not learnable, hindering the network from jointly optimizing the scene decomposition and the radiance fields in an end-to-end manner. The different sub-networks are typically optimized independently, and thus hand-crafted rules are required to composite them to achieve a better consistency. To tackle these issues, we propose Switch-NeRF, a novel end-to-end large-scale NeRF with learning-based scene decomposition. We design a gating network to dispatch 3D points to different NeRF sub-networks. The gating network can be optimized together with the NeRF sub-networks for different scene partitions, by a design with the Sparsely Gated Mixture of Experts (MoE). The outputs from different sub-networks can also be fused in a learnable way in the unified framework to effectively guarantee the consistency of the whole scene. Furthermore, the proposed MoE-based Switch-NeRF model is carefully implemented and optimized to achieve both high-fidelity scene reconstruction and efficient computation. Our method establishes clear state-of-the-art performances on several large-scale datasets. To the best of our knowledge, we are the first to propose an applicable end-to-end sparse NeRF network with learning-based decomposition for large-scale scenes. Codes are released at https://github.com/MiZhenxing/Switch-NeRF.